Cortes Island Ancient Forest #3: Green Valley Watershed

One of the challenges that communities such as Cortes Island face when negotiating with logging companies on behalf of the forests is that they are often not even speaking the same language.

The timber companies think in terms of cost-benefit analyses, risk management, and cubic meters of timber—terms that are quantifiable and can be translated into quarterly returns for shareholders.To them, the forest itself is just a store of value that gradually appreciates as the forest grows bigger each year. The timber companies cannot actually realize that value until the timber is harvested and the resource is liquidated. According to the Wall Street Journal, in these times of volatile markets, ultra-wealthy investors are looking to timberlands—not for recreational purposes—but as a hedge against inflation.

If this way of thinking about the forest seems foreign to you, imagine how it must feel for rural communities that have inhabited these forest lands for over a century—not to mention First Nations, who have been nourished by the forest for millennia. Many Cortesians that I have met possess an almost mystical connection with the forest—one that is unquantifiable and deeply spiritual. Forest communities also have a heightened awareness of the innumerable ecological services and non-monetary qualities of a healthy living forest.

Take for instance the Delight Lake Watershed, which has been purifying the water for the inhabitants of Cortes Island—human and otherwise—since the last ice age. When the rains fall, the water is filtered through the roots of the trees, as well as the underground network of mushroom mycelium, and collects into wetlands and lakes. This matrix of mycelium—what mycologist Paul Stamets calls, “the interface between life and death”—is also busy decomposing organic matter and transforming it into nutrients and fertile soil, from which life is able to spring once again. Meanwhile, the tree roots are holding the topsoil together, preventing it from being washed away from the solid bedrock into the ocean. And aboveground, the trees are busy cleaning the air by breathing in carbon dioxide and exhaling oxygen—one of our best defenses against climate change.

These are just a few examples (that we are aware of) of the ecological services that a forest provides. And it does all this naturally, asking for nothing in return—except to be allowed to stand. But none of these values factor into Island Timberlands’ equations, because they cannot translate them into revenue. And although the land is their “private property”, they certainly are not living anywhere near it, so they are not connected to it in the same physical way that Cortesians are. What little stewardship is being done is not done in the spirit of cultivating a healthy forest ecosystem, but with the sole intention of maximizing timber value.

That is why some forest advocates have begun to quantify some of these ecological services in order to be able to make an economic argument for leaving a forest standing. For instance, how much would it cost to build a water treatment facility on Cortes, and to transport in healthy topsoil, and to clean the air, and all the other things that a living forest does for humans? Or another argument I have heard is, how many people come to Cortes each year to experience the wildness of Cortes Island’s forests? How much money do these visitors spend on food, gas, shelter, and ecotourism? This number likely far exceeds the value that stays on Cortes when raw logs are taken from the forest and exported to foreign mills.

When you do the math, there really is a strong economic argument to be made for leaving ecosystems in tact and allowing them to continue providing the services that they naturally provide. And for some more economically minded folks out there, this argument may be very persuasive. Those who maybe aren’t as ecologically aware sometimes need to have those services quantified to be able to understand their value. But I truly believe that one walks a slippery slope when attempting to make an economic argument for preserving ecosystems.

The reason why big investment firms like Brookfield Asset Management, don’t consider the value of these ecological services in the first place is because they are non-monetary services. As long as the forests are standing, these services will continue to do their work for free. While the community may benefit, there is no profit that can be extracted. But what is to stop some savvy investor from harvesting the timber, contaminating the water supply, then starting up a bottled water company in order to sell bottled water to this new market that just opened up? This may seem far-fetched, but it’s the same logic of the oil and gas companies that are now drilling in the arctic—where global warming has melted the ice, revealing new petroleum deposits that were previously inaccessible.

So you can see how making a business case for preserving ecosystems may be a solid argument for forest communities that are thinking in terms of generations, but for shortsighted business tycoons that are being spurred by immense debt pressures, fiduciary responsibilities to shareholders, and straight up greed, there is always going to be some other profit-making scheme that looks more attractive in the short-term, and will generate bigger quarterly returns.

At the end of the day, one can only quantify what one already understands or is aware of, and the more we learn about the old-growth forest, the more we realize how little we actually know. For one, there are thousands of species of mycelium living in the ground and in the trees that have yet to be categorized or even discovered. These rare or unknown mushrooms may hold the cure to untold diseases. Who knows what we have yet to discover about our ancient forests—what other profound services they provide to humans, of which we have yet to become conscious. And how does one even begin to quantify the psychic and spiritual healing that can be derived from a long walk in the woods?The answer is simply that these qualities of the forest are unquantifiable. So perhaps the right way to move forward is not for forest communities to try and speak the language of the timber companies, but for timber companies to learn the language of the forest—a more holistic language. And with new words come new ideas, whole new ways of thinking, and ultimately new business models.

Cortes Island Ancient Forest #2: The Carrington Bay Children’s Forest

There is very little common ground between Island Timberlands’ methods and how the community would like forestry to be done on Cortes—but as this is private managed forestland, there’s not a whole lot they can legally do about it.

And, as long as the province is benefitting from these operations through their investment wing, the BC Investment Management Corporation (BCIMC)—which manages all of the public sector pension funds—there will continue to be a disturbing incentive for them to maintain the status quo, regardless of what communities may want.

According to Ken Wu of the Ancient Forest Alliance (AFA), "Ultimately, if these lands are going to be protected, they need to be purchased." But despite the fact that Brookfield Asset Management purchased their coastal timber holdings for bottom dollar, they are now insisting on highly inflated prices. (We will discuss a concrete example of this in two weeks when we explore the Whaletown Commons.) How on earth are humble Cortesians supposed to purchase these forestlands for such astronomical prices?

One option is to engage a Land Trust organization. BC has two provincial land trusts to choose from: Nature Trust and The Land Conservancy. And then there are some smaller, more localized land trusts, such as the Islands Trust. These groups raise tens of millions of dollars each year for the preservation of special areas that happen to fall on private land. But once the lands are purchased, how does a community ensure that those lands remain protected in perpetuity?

In addition to raising funds, land trusts also help with the legal process of placing conservation covenants on privately held land. A conservation covenant is when a private landowner makes a legally binding promise to protect the land in specific ways of his or her choosing. The land trust agrees to monitor the covenant and ensures that its promise is being upheld. Covenants are very flexible as to what one can specify to be protected or restricted on the land, and they are attached to the land title forever—regardless of who owns it in the future.Or, you could do what they did on Cortes and create your very own Trust. The Forest Trust for the Children of Cortes Island was just incorporated this past summer, with the sole purpose of purchasing and protecting with covenants what is known as the Children's Forest. This area lies at the mouth of Carrington 

Lagoon, adjacent to Carrington Bay Regional Park. It contains some of the only stands of old sitka spruce trees on the island. James Creek runs right through the forest and supports spawning salmon. The origin of the name comes from the area's history of being a place where students would come and learn about forest stewardship, ecology, mushrooms, wildlife, and salmon enhancement.Island Timberlands, to its credit, has acknowledged the uniqueness of this area and has left it off its immediate logging plans. The company has engaged in a process with the Children's Forest Trust to allow them some time to raise the necessary funds to be able to acquire the property. The next step is to agree on a fair price—which could number in the tens of millions. If Cortes Island is going to achieve this seemingly unatainable goal, they are going to need a lot of help from the outside world.

But with just two provincial land trusts in BC, there are not a whole lot of places that they can turn to. But even if they are able to get the funds they need to save this forest, the reality is that private land trusts will never be equipped to purchase all these endangered private lands fast enough to save them from liquidation. The only organization in BC with a budget large enough to make these purchases is the provincial government.Up until 2008 the province had a land acquisition fund. However, since the recession, a fund has not been included in the budget. That is why the Ancient Forest Alliance has authored a petition calling on the provincial government to establish a BC Park Acquisition Fund of $40 million a year—or about 0.1% of the annual provincial budget.

Over ten years this fund would add up to $400 million and could be used to purchase lands with important ecological, cultural, and recreational value, to be added to the BC parks system. The petition also points out that, “For every $1 invested by the BC government in our parks system, another $9 is generated in the provincial economy through tourism revenues.” Not to mention the ecological services that a forest provides in purifying our air and water. (We will discuss ecological services next week in Green Valley.)

There is a compelling economic argument to be made for investing in a standing forest—simply to allow it to continue doing its job as a forest. But before that can happen with the Cortes Island Children's Forest, Island Timberlands will have to agree to sell the land at fair value. And even if that does occur, the province will have to start making the acquisition of private forestlands a priority if communities like Cortes are going to survive, let alone purchase these lands. And no matter what, the Children's Forest Trust is going to have a huge amount of fundraising on their hands.

But perhaps most importantly, for all the land that is going to remain in the hands of the corporations, there is a need for stronger regulations and enforcement of violations on Private Managed Forestland. Sensitive ecosystems and species at risk do not understand property lines. And the long-term effects of industrial logging practices have innumerable downstream consequences for neighboring communities. So the whole argument that says, “It’s their private land, they can do whatever they want.” Well, therein lies the problem—and I don’t buy it.

Cortes Island Ancient Forest #1: The Basil Creek Watershed

My first field trip to Cortes Island in January 2012 was a life-altering event. 

Meeting the people of Cortes—learning about their mammoth struggle with far-away investment firms that want to cash in on their forestlands—influenced the course of my life for years to come.

I returned to Cortes in late November after an IT representative left a cryptic message on the Cortes Island website that said they would "begin forest harvesting and related activities the week of November 26."One thing I didn’t fully grasp in my previous excursions was the full extent of Island Timberlands’ land holdings on Cortes, because there were no identifying markers. But this time, as I drove along the main east-west road that connects the villages of Manson’s Landing and Whaletown, I could see that both sides were lined with Island Timberlands' Private Property signs.

The Seeds of Heartwood: Forest Guardians of Cortes Island

There is a special feeling that you get when walk through an ancient forest. You feel surrounded by something more ancient and mysterious than the oldest tree in the forest.

There is something much deeper going on there—a hidden power simmering just beneath the surface. And in some weird way, you can’t help but feel that the forest is very much aware of your presence. I remember my first time on Cortes Island, producing a series of videos for the Vancouver Observer back in January 2012. I was taken into the woods by a knowledgeable group of Cortesians and Ancient Forest Alliance (AFA) campaigners Ken Wu and TJ Watt. We were going to see the Basil Creek Watershed, a section of forestland owned by Island Timberlands. As we walked through an overgrown skid road surrounded by thick alder brush, they explained that this area was previously owned by Macmillan-Bloedel—a BC-based logging company that had amassed hundreds of thousands of hectares of private forestland before being bought by American lumber giant Weyerhaeuser in 1999. Weyerhaeuser sold the land to Wall Street investment firm Brascan, which has since changed its name to Brookfield Asset Management. Brookfield created Island Timberlands specifically to harvest its coastal timber holdings in British Columbia.

We turned off the logging road into the thicket of dense alders. The Cortesians reminded us that European settlers had almost completely logged this island at the turn of the century. We passed by huge stumps with notches in them about six feet up, where the fallers had inserted wooden springboards. This allowed them to get their axes and saws above the trees’ flared buttresses, making the enormous exercise of cutting down these forest giants by hand marginally easier. MacBlo began clearing this area again in 1990. But a blockade led by theKlahoose First Nation prevented them from logging. MacBlo never returned to log on Cortes again. The island was deemed Socially Inoperable—a label that many Cortesians still wear with pride.

The moment we emerged from the alders, we stepped into another world. This forest was nothing like the one we had just stepped out of. It was more spacious. Sword ferns and skunk cabbage grew in swampy pools. Massive cedars and Douglas-firs towered above us. One Cortesian held out his arms in front of a tree and the diameter far exceeded his six-foot wingspan. This was a real old-growth forest. Our guides began to speak of a vast underground network that permeates the entire forest. If you have ever seen a mushroom or a fungus sprouting from a log, that is simply the fruiting body of an ancient network of tiny filaments spread throughout the forest floor—known as mycelium. Over the millennia, the mycelium has developed a mystical alliance with the trees.

The Cortesians often quoted mycologist (mushroom scientist) Paul Stamets, who has his research lab on Cortes. Stamets has made groundbreaking discoveries into the hidden powers of mushrooms that only grow in the old-growth forest. Stamets says that these underground networks of mycelium are like “the Earth's natural Internet.” They can sense any impression on the ground, and can relay huge amounts of data about any organisms moving through the landscape. Suddenly, that feeling I experienced when I stepped into the old-growth forest began to make a lot more sense. The forest really was aware of us. Ken Wu of the AFA commented on how rare it is to find a stand of ancient Douglas-firs like this on the coast. Only one per cent of the original coastal Douglas-fir ecosystem remains. This grove on Cortes, overlooked by a century of logging, represents a small portion of that one per cent.

As we walked out of the forest, my mind was reeling with questions. How did this forest come to be private in the first place? How did we get to this point where one company can own hundreds of thousands of hectares of forestland? What regulations exist to protect communities such as Cortes from this kind of logging? Is truly sustainable forestry even possible on privately managed forest land? And how might that look?

This past November, after a year of negotiations with the Cortes community, IT moved to begin harvesting the Basil Creek Watershed, the same forest we had walked through last year. In response, Island Stance—an ally within the Wildstands Forest Alliance committed to peaceful direct action—launched a blockade, along with others from the Cortes community, in exactly the same spot that the Klahoose had held theirs twenty years ago.

Cortesians have been on the front lines of this struggle for over 20 years. And I intend to be there to capture the latest chapter in this epic tale for my upcoming documentary Heartwood: Forest Guardians of Cortes Island.Heartwood will follow the Cortes community as it fights to defend its forests from industrial logging and attempts to build a new kind of forestry economy, in partnership with the Klahoose First Nation.